Suwayda & Shahba (Jabal al-Arab) — Rome in Black Basalt in Southern Syria

Southern Syria holds a region unlike any other: Jabal al-Arab (the Druze Mountain) and Suwayda province — a black volcanic land of Roman cities built entirely of basalt. No less than Bosra, but quieter and far less visited — whoever reaches it sees Rome in another colour. Here's what to see and how to visit.

The way from Damascus

About 100 km, 1.5 hours south — a full day trip, best combined with Bosra (about 35 km away, in the same black stone).

Shahba — city of Emperor Philip the Arab

Shahba is no ordinary Roman city: it is the birthplace of Emperor Philip the Arab (Marcus Julius Philippus), who ruled Rome in the mid-3rd century and built his home town into a complete Roman city he named Philippopolis. What survives: a small basalt theatre, the baths and a temple (the Philippeion), and some of the finest Roman floor mosaics in Syria, kept in a small museum. A planned city of right-angled streets — you feel the Roman grid under your feet.

Qanawat — of the Decapolis

Qanawat (Canatha) was one of the Decapolis league of ten cities. Its best-known monument is the temple complex (the Seraglio) — a Roman temple turned church, its columns and facade still standing among oak trees. A green, quiet site you'll often have to yourself.

Suwayda & Salkhad

• Suwayda, the provincial capital, a black-basalt city with a museum of important Roman mosaics.
• Salkhad, further south, crowned by an Ayyubid castle on an extinct volcanic crater, with a view over the whole plain.

An honest note

The Roman south is black, not white — not the marble of the classical cities but the basalt of this volcanic region, which gives it a stern, distinctive character. The sites are less restored and less crowded, and whoever comes for history and quiet is rewarded.

When to go & how long

• A full day for Jabal al-Arab alone, or a long day combining it with Bosra.
• Spring is loveliest — the volcanic land turns green; summers are hot and the mountain is cold in winter.

We'll get you there

Jabal al-Arab makes a private trip from Damascus with a car and driver — done as one southern loop with Bosra. The driver knows the way, and you stop wherever you like.

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Read more: Bosra · Damascus travel guide · Syria travel guide

In Arabic: السويداء وشهبا (جبل العرب)

Wherever your road leads, we'll get you there.

Sources: Shahba (Philippopolis) — Wikipedia · Qanawat — Wikipedia